Sommeliers' Guide to Burgundy

Photo Credit: Thirsty South [flickr] and cover photo: Megan Cole [flickr]

Located in the center of France, Burgundy is one of the country's prized wine regions. Four sommeliers pass along a few of their favorite classic places to eat, shops, bike ride... and, of course, drink.

FARMERS MARKET

Saturday Market | Photo Credit: Pug Girl [flickr]

Beaune Saturday Market

Saturday markets in France are the social events of the week. The Saturday Market at Beaune is one of the classic French markets where people do all of their food shopping. The best bets are the vendors selling local products.

"This is one of the excellent markets in France. Make sure to go early and try the vegetables from the guy who has a farm right outside of town and the gingerbread (Pain des Epices) from the (likely) only woman selling it, or any other regional food. It's a good place to go because it's not just a tourist market, it's a real market, and people are really doing their shopping here."
FED Pro > Sommelier Josh Adler of Paris Wine Company

Place de la Halle Place Fleury, Avenue de la République, 21200 Beaune

RESTAURANTS

La Ferme de Rolle

Located in the former stables of a farm, they serve traditional Burgundian dishes grilled over a wood fire.

"The only thing to order is the Jambon à la Broche. There's an open fireplace and they roast ham on the spit. They have a large menu, but don't get tempted by the mixed grill. You can stay here because they rent out very nice rooms that have recently been redone and are very inexpensive, less than 100 euros and maybe half that. It's an authentic experience because it's in a part of Burgundy that people don't go to. Try to bring your own wine and either call or just show up."
FED Pro >  Sommelier Josh Adler of Paris Wine Company

Rolle Hamlet, 21220 Ternant
T: +33.3.80.61.40.10  | www.fermederolle.fr

Photograph courtesy of Caves Madeleine

Caves Madeleine

A restaurant and wine shop with farm-fresh food and an impressive wine list including many hard-to-find gems.

"A cave à manger with an excellent wine list. Lolo is one of those people who is in the know in the wine world. He has a fantastic eclectic taste Vin
Nature, Raveneau, high-end, low-end, things that you see everywhere but you never drink, and it's all cave prices plus droit de bouchon. Solid food, but not fine dining. They've got a big table d'hôte, but you've got to reserve. Recommendation for wine here is tell Lolo what you feel like drinking or let him know exactly what you're looking for and he'll hook you up."
FED Pro > Sommelier Josh Adler of Paris Wine Company

8 Rue du Faubourg Madeleine, 21200 Beaune
T: +33.3.80.22.93.30

Photographs courtesy of Cafe Restaurant de la Gare

Cafe Restaurant de la Gare

This restaurant is located at the Nuits St Georges station and has a set menu for each meal, including breakfast.

"It’s a canteen where there is no choice but consistently correct and well-priced country food. I used to come here three times per week when I was working in the vineyards for the Domaine de l'Arlot. The place was always filled with vineyard workers, which was all the convincing I needed."
FED Pro > Sommelier Michael Madrigale (Formerly of Boulud Sud)

93, Rue Henri Challand, 21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
T: +33.9.50.47.29.89

Le Bistrot Bourguignon

This is Beaune's oldest wine bar with a by-the-glass or bottle selections from around Burgundy. 

"For fantastic wine by the glass."
FED Pro > Sommelier Michael Madrigale (Formerly of Boulud Sud)

8 Rue Monge, 21200 Beaune
T: +33.3.80.22.23.24 | www.restaurant-lebistrotbourguignon.com

Ma Cuisine | Photo Credit: Isabel {flickr}

Ma Cuisine

This bistro is where you'll find Burgundy winemakers, importers, and major collectors coming together for simple French fare and an exhaustive list of Burgundian wines. Reservations recommended.

"Ma Cuisine is fantastic. Classic and well executed Burgundian specialties."
FED Pro > Sommelier Michael Madrigale (Formerly of Boulud Sud)

"Famous restaurant that you should go to for the wine list. It's one of the best lists in the world at reasonable prices. It's the spot to drink Domaine de la Romanée Conti including some old stuff."
FED Pro > Sommelier Josh Adler of Paris Wine Company

"Unbelievably fresh ingredients, excellent low key homey food, stereotypical amusing cranky French owner, good wine list, and the prices are good too."
FED Pro > Sommelier John Slover

Passage Saint-Hélène, 21200 Beaune
T: +33.3.80.22.30.22

Photography courtesy of Le Comptoir des Tontons

Le Comptoir des Tontons

A cozy bistro owned by Richard and Pépita. Her food is based on what she finds at the local market.

"Pépita can really cook. Drink burgundy and nothing but Burgundy.
FED Pro > Sommelier Mark Williamson of Willie’s Wine Bar

22 Rue du Faubourg Madeleine, 21200 Beaune
T: +33.3.80.24.19.64 | www.lecomptoirdestontons.com

BARS

Bar du Square

Where locals come to drink from their affordable Burgundy list.

"Run by the son of the folks at Ma Cuisine, Romain Escoffier. You may be able to eat, but your best bet is to have dinner somewhere else. It's the place where all the winemakers go and drink. It's a good place to go if you're looking to get into trouble. Just a lot of fun."
FED Pro > Sommelier Josh Adler of Paris Wine Company

26 Boulevard Maréchal Foch, 21200 Beaune
T:+33.3.80.24.03.32

BIKES

Photograph courtesy of Bourgogne Randonnées

Rent Bikes at Bourgogne Randonnée

"Ask for Florent who will give you routes with recommendations of where to lunch. There are also plenty of vineyard routes that are not that hilly unless you want them to be."
FED Pro > Sommelier Josh Adler of Paris Wine Company

7 Avenue du 8 Septembre, 21200 Beaune
T:  +33.3.80.22.06.03 | www.bourgogne-randonnees.fr

PICNIC

The Cliffs of Bouilland (Falaises Bouilland)

"Have a picnic at the cliffs, Falaises Bouilland in the Hautes Côtes. Grab a bottle at Caves Madeleine and some local food at the market to make a picnic and drive up to the top of the hill. Your best bet is to bike all the way there, though you'll need to leave the bike in the parking lot and walk the last 1.5km which are as steep as 18% gradient!"
FED Pro > Sommelier Josh Adler of Paris Wine Company

21420 Bouilland

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FED PROS

Josh Adler

Creator and owner of Paris Wine Company, a wine export company based in France. He was former wine director at Spring in Paris.

Mark Williamson

Owner of the iconic Willie’s Wine Bar in Paris, which has had a loyal following for over 35 years.

Michael Madrigale

Former head sommelier of Bar Boulud, Boulud Sud, and Épicerie Boulud in New York. Food & Wine Sommelier of the Year 2012 and James Beard Finalist for Best Wine Program in 2014.

John Slover

Sommelier and wine consultant at Awadh and Charlie Bird. Former wine director at Blue Hill, Washington Park, and Cru in New York. 

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