A guide for the first time you visit Paris with both classic and a few new spots recommended by the FED Pros
A guide for the first time you visit Paris with both classic and a few new spots recommended by the FED Pros
Coutume takes their coffee very seriously. Beans are roasted onsite by co-founder and master torréfacteur (roaster) Antoine Netien, who was named Best Roaster in France. Pick your method: a Japanese siphon, a steam-punk cold drip machine that produces exceptional coffee in 24-hours, and the first Strada Marzocco espresso machine in Paris.
"For the welcoming feeling and awesome coffee. For true coffee lovers and the best latte in town."
FED Pro > Sommelier Laura Vidal of Paris PopUp, formerly of Frenchie
47 Rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.45.51.50.47 | www.coutumecafe.com
Coffee shop and cafe near the Canal Saint-Martin. In the morning, they serve homey breakfast foods with house-made jams and fresh breads. You can order pancakes topped with eggs, granola or pain des amis along with a cappuccino, espresso, latte, filter coffee or flat white. During the day, you can get pastries, sandwiches, soups and eggs, along with a beer or glass of wine. Closed in August.
"A stroll around Parc de Buttes Chaumont then Holybelly for brunch."
FED PRO > Bartender Joshua Fontaine of Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, Glass
19 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010 Paris, France
holybel.ly
Breakfast (as well as lunch) spot with American deli foods like bacon, egg on an English muffin, pulled pork sandwich, pastrami on rye, hot dogs, lobster rolls and Brooklyn beers.
"This is owned by Frenchie chef Gregory Marchand. He is colonizing the street with his restaurant, wine bar and this take out place."
FED Pro > Barman Romée De Goriainoff of Experimental Group
9 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris, France
www.frenchietogo.com
How to win friends and influence people? Bring them back delicious Pierre Hermé macarons. Double layers of almond meringue filled with flavors like Chuao (dark chocolate and blackcurrant), Medelice (lemon and hazelnut praline), Coing (quince), and Magnifique (strawberry and wasabi). They also have frou-frou tarts, cakes, feuilles, and award-winning croissants.
"He has a delicious Rhum Baba and Vanilla pie. I like to share these pastries with my family during Sunday lunch. His pastries are sweet, smart, and well thought out."
FED Pro > Chef Michel Rostang of Michel Rostang
"It's a beautiful shop, intimate and beautifully displayed pastries. I visited as often as I could while working in Paris at Guy Savoy."
FED Pro > Pastry Chef Krista Dejarlais
"I come here for the croissant, an assortment of individual pastries and macaron - but mostly to marvel at the consistency in production year after year."
FED Pro > Pastry Chef Meg Ray of Miette Cakes
72 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.43.54.47.77 | www.pierreherme.com | Find More Shops
This small and casual bistro from Yves Camdeborde is on everyone's radar, so booking in advance is recommended. However, they don't take reservations for lunch, so it's a good time try your luck at scoring a table.
"I love the fact that it’s casual, elegant. You really feel like you are in Paris, in the middle of Saint Germain, which is a cool neighborhood obviously. Then the food is really good. It’s not a surprise because the guy is talented, but when you get the food you think - Whoa! What is that? Hold on!"
FED Pro > Chef Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin
"For pig trotters and Foie Gras Salad."
FED Pro > Chef Gary Danko of Gary Danko
"It's really hard to get a reservation, but one isn’t needed at lunch, so that’s a good time to try it out."
FED Pro > Chef Suzanne Goin of A.O.C., Lucques, Tavern
9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.44.27.07.97
A wine bar known for their tartines, open-faced sandwiches served on freshly baked Poilâne bread, as well as all kinds of pork products (boudin, pâté, ham, rillettes) and cheeses. The bar opened in the 1950s and still has the original zinc bar.
"For a glass of wine with sandwiches of my bread with pâtés and cheeses."
FED Pro > Baker Apollonia Poilâne of Poilâne
80 Rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris
T: +33.(0)1.45.48.49.02 | ausauvignon.com
Casual cafe for Tartines, which are open-faced sandwiches. They are made with Poilâne breads (the bakery is next door). They also serve salads and soups. If you hit the busy hour, expect a line out the door for a table. If needed, they have free WiFi.
"For open-faced sandwiches at lunch."
FED Pro > Baker Apollonia Poilâne of Poilâne
8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France
T: +33.(0).1.45.48.45.69 | www.cuisinedebar.fr
Located in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, which is Paris' oldest covered passageway. This is the kind of charming place you hope to discover in Paris. It's like stepping into an Edouard Manet painting. Eat organic foods and drink natural wines. Now owned by David Lahner after Pierre Jancou moved on.
"The ingredients they use are amazing. I love the simplicity of how they come out with the chalk board and put it on your table. They only have a few choices for appetizer, two mains, some cheese and two desserts. The wine list they just sell orally. There is no pretension. It’s small with lots of character."
FED Pro > Sommelier Arnaud Tronche of Racines NY
"The original Racines is such a beautiful and small space. The food is always delicious -- simple and well prepared with fabulous ingredients. The chicken is sensational and it’s always a great wine list. It’s nice to have the difficult choice of which great bottle to pick. The idea of the farm-sourced ingredients goes so well with the natural wines."
FED Pro > David Lillie of Chamber Street Wines
8 Passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.40.13.06.41 | www.racinesparis.com
If man were to live on bread alone, he’d want it made from Poilâne bakery. Poilâne breads are one of the most sought-after loaves in the world. Thick, with a golden crust, slightly sour flavor and marked with their signature 'P' on top. Poilâne bakes 15,000 loaves a day and ships to more than 20 countries around the world.
"If you want to try the ultimate bread this is what it is. The sourdough is just amazing. The texture of the crust and the texture of the inside and the sourness. They use Fleur de Sel in the bread so you really get a nice saltiness. They also make Punitions, which are the little butter cookies. They have apple turnovers that are amazing and fruit loaves. This is the original location with the ovens downstairs, it's the tradition of the place, yet mondernized."
FED Pro > Chef & Master Spice Blender Lior Lev Sercarz of La Boîte à Epices
8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France | T: +33.(0).1.45.48.42.59
49 Boulevard de Grenelle, 75015 Paris, France | T: +33.(0).1.45.79.11.49
38 Rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris, France | T: +33.(0).1.44.61.83.39
www.poilane.com
If you are in the mood for something sweet after walking around the Marais (and possibly after a falafel sandwich around the corner at L'As du Fallafel) pop in for some gelato.
"Best gelato I’ve ever had. Period. Maybe the best espresso as well and that’s saying a lot. After an exhausting shop at BHV or a visit to the Picasso Museum, this Marais shop is worth the wait."
FED Photographer > Troy House
39 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.42.77.08.64 | www.pozzetto.biz
All white minimalist boutique with the only color being Muriel Grateau's linens and plates artfully displayed. It looks more like a contemporary gallery than a housewares store.
"The linens are astonishing."
FED Pro > Designers Andrew & Anna Hellman of Teroforma
37 Rue de Beaune, 75007 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.40.20.42.82 | murielgrateau.com
Opened in 1968, with over 1200 things to choose from. From single malt to Japanese to Irish to Brenton whiskies.
"I love to come here to shop since they have fair amount of different alcohols."
FED Pro > Bartender Scotty Schuder of Dirty Dick's
"One of my favorite shops to find spirits."
FED Pro > Bartender Joshua Fontain, co-owner of Candelaria, Glass, Le Mary Celeste
"I know many liquor shops in Paris, but I like this one in particular. They have been specializing in whiskey since 1956."
FED Pro > Bartender William Oliveri of Bar 228
20 Rue d'Anjou, 75008 Paris, France | T: +33 (0)1.42.65.03.16
6 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris, France | T: +33.(0)1.46.34.70.20
www.whisky.fr
The second oldest wine shop in Paris that has been open since 1850. Known for stocking many natural wines.
"The most well known wine shop in Paris for things that leans towards the natural end of the spectrum."
FED Pro > David Lillie of Chambers Street Wines
"It’s kind of an institution; you can’t skip it. It’s one of the best cavistes in Paris."
FED Pro > Sommelier Laura Vidal of Paris PopUp, formerly of Frenchie
116 Boulevard Haussmann, 75008 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.45.22.16.97 | www.cavesauge.com
Cheese shop run by Marie Quatrehomme, the first woman to win the coveted Meilleur Ouvrier de France title. They have been supplying the best restaurants with top cheeses since 1953. She offers over 200 different cheeses, including hard to find specialties.
"This is such a great cheese shop."
FED Pro > Baker Apollonia Poilâne of Poilâne
62 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.47.34.33.45 | www.quatrehomme.fr
Gourmet food shop that offers homemade foie gras, made by the Divay brothers, Jean-Pierre and Philippe. They also sell smoked salmon, caviar and choucroute (sauerkraut), and andouillette (pork sausage made from the intestines).
"I love this shop that specializes in foie gras. They also have traditional French choucroute, which is an Alsatian dish."
FED Pro > Chef Michel Rostang of Michel Rostang
4 Rue Bayen, 75017 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.43.80.16.97 | www.foie-gras-divay.com
If you're going to while away the afternoon, this legendary Saint-Germain-des-Prés cafe is the right spot. Great for people watching and steeped in history. Sure it's touristy, but it's where Jean-Paul Sartre, Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote and many celebrity highbrow thinkers were drinkers.
"A classic spot for a hot chocolate."
FED Pro > Baker Apollonia Poilâne of Poilâne
172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.45.48.55.26 | www.cafedeflore.fr
Located in the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art museum. French architect Joseph Dirand created a highly stylized space with emerald green velvet Saarinen chairs and pea green velvet banquettes, plus vintage Lalique glass panels and marble and oak floors. Sit outside for a view of the Eiffel Tower.
"This restaurants has views of the Eiffel Tower and the Trocadero. The food is great, but you’ll be taken with the view."
FED Pro > Barman Romée De Goriainoff
20 Avenue de New York, 75116 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.47.20.90.47 | monsieurbleu.com
Go for the history and stay for the cocktail. Le Bar is on the ground floor of this legendary hotel where many famous celebs have sipped a cocktail and stayed the night - everyone from Salvador Dali to Frank Sinatra.
"The bar here is great. It's also where Oscar Wilde died."
FED Pro > Mezcal Producer Ron Cooper of Del Maguey
"Historic hotel and bartenders who makes their own twists on the classics."
FED Pro > Master Blender Alexandre Gabriel of Pierre Ferrand
13 Rue des Beaux Arts, 75006 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.44.41.99.00 | www.l-hotel.com
For the past thirty-plus years, Willi’s Wine Bar has a been a destination for everyone from the oenophile to the novice. Their Bottle Art posters have become collector’s items. Elegant 1930s facade, polished oak bar and a strong wine list.
"Over 250 wines on the list with great specials. Every year they commission a contemporary artist to create an image for their limited edition collection, these are often whimsical and are prominent throughout the dining room; gorgeous polished oak bar."
FED Pro > Chef Jimmy Bradley of The Red Cat
13 Rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.42.61.05.09 | williswinebar.com
Chef William Ledeuil trained with superstar chef Guy Savoy before opening his own place. Inventive cooking in a loft space which lends itself to showcasing the open kitchen and the art displays.
"For fusion food. The chef is French and does an amazing job at integrating Asian flavors."
FED Pro > Baker Apollonia Poilâne of Poilâne
4 Rue des Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.44.32.00.32 | www.zekitchengalerie.fr/en
Once a hidden gem, you'll now see this bustling spot on many people's list as the quintessential Paris bistro. Classic menu items like steak frites, cochon de lait, and roast monkfish with oyster mushrooms.
"It’s on a lot of people's lists, but there are really no secrets in Paris when it comes to this type of cooking. Paul Bert is quintessential French Bistrot which means it's good, fun, but a bit rough around the edges."
FED Pro > Chef Daniel Rose of Spring
"Solid, satisfying bistrot food with a great wine list. A reliable place that’s always worth going back to."
FED Pro > Sommelier Josh Adler of Paris Wine Company and formerly of Spring
18 Rue Paul Bert, Paris 75011, France
T: +33.(0)1.43.72.24.01
First opened in 1931 by a Basque nationalist. Chef Stéphane Jego has kept the original traditional feel, but modernized the menu.
"Chef Stephane Jego is amazing. Filling food, an extraordinary culinary team, and overwhelming generosity."
FED Pro > Sommelier Laura Vidal of Paris PopUp, formerly of Frenchie
"The food here is very creative. Stéphane Jégo is one of the best chefs in Paris. It’s a bistro where you eat until you die. You sit down for lunch at 12 and you finish at 4pm. It is Southwestern cuisine and very French. He does one of the best dishes I’ve ever had. It’s a foie gras, but it is a whole roasted foie gras en concotte. Amazing dish. You eat that and you can’t eat anything else."
FED Pro > Barman Romée De Goriainoff
"They have a really exciting wine list with random stuff that you usually don’t get in the US, same goes for Le Verre Volé."
FED Pro > Sommelier Thomas Carter of Estela
27 Rue Malar, 75007 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.47.05.86.89 | lamijean.fr
Come for a glass of wine and their well-made charcuterie, served on dark-crusted slices of pain Poilâne.
"For tete d’veau or pigs trotters."
FED Pro > Chef Fergus Henderson of St. John
10 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.42.61.03.34
Wine bar and cafe from the crew behind Au Passage and named after co-owner Loic Martin, the former bartender there. Cocktails and small plate dishes until late in the night.
"A laid-back café on a busy boulevard serving affordable drinks and fantastic tiny snacks."
FED Pro > Barman Joshua Fontaine of Glass, Le Mary Celeste, Candelaria, Hero
Open until 2am
24 Boulevard du Temple, 75011 Paris, France
T: +33.(0)1.43.57.82.37 | bar-martin.fr
Jacques Génin used to only sell his chocolates to the trade, but now has boutiques open to the public. The Experimental Group's Romée de Goriainoff calls him the best chocolate and pastry maker in Paris.
A small boutique dedicated to gourmet jams, chutneys, honeys and various confitures. Chef Jody Williams recommends the champagne and raspberry jam, red fruit and vin chaud jam.
Legendary chef Olivier Roellinger's unique spice shop comes recommended by spice master Lior Lev Sercarz. They have the first cellar in the world for aging vanilla and many other spices from around the world.
Executive chef and owner of Spring in Paris.
Executive chef and co-owner of Michel Rostang Restaurant Group in Paris.
Chef and Master spice blender, founder of La Boîte à Epices.
Executive chef and co-owner of Le Bernardin in New York.
Owner Poilâne Bakery in Paris and London.
Barman and co-founder The Experimental Group in Paris, London and New York.
Sommelier and co-founder of The Paris Pop-Up, Formerly of Frenchie in Paris.
Sommelier and founder of Paris Wine Company. Formerly of Spring in Paris.
Head Bartender at Bar 228 at Le Meurice in Paris.
Bartender and co-owner Le Mary Celester, Glass, Candelaria in Paris.
Bartender and co-owner of Dirty Dick in Paris.
Sommelier and co-owner of Estela in New York.
Executive chef and co-owner of A.O.C., Lucques, Tavern in Los Angeles.
Executive chef and co-owner of Gary Danko in San Francisco.
Pastry chef and owner of Miette Cakes in San Francisco.
Mezcal producer and owner of Del Maguey.
READ | Trip Reads for Paris -- Inspirational reading lists for today's traveler.
MUSIC | iTunes -- Download some French music.
PHOTOGRAPHY | Troy House -- Photographs from his journal and travels to Paris.
HOTELS | Tablet Hotels -- Book a Paris Hotel.
APARTMENTS | Airbnb -- Book an Apartment.
RAIL | Rail Europe -- Book a Train Ticket.
METRO | Getting around.
BIKES | Velib -- Paris' bike program.
MUSEUMS | Buy the Paris Museum Pass.
FLEA MARKETS | Vide Greniers -- daily schedule of flea markets and locations (in French).
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