Pigalle is Paris’ infamous red light district, known as a seedy area with a reputation for prostitutes, pimps, peep shows and strip clubs. That was, until now. In the past few years, ex-pats and bobos (a mashup of bourgeois and bohemian) have begun transforming the area nicknamed SoPi (South Pigalle), turning bordellos into boutiques and sex clubs into cocktail bars. Gentrification is definitely changing the vibe of the area, but there are still fringe elements and grittiness to be found. This is not that guide. This is more where chefs buy croissants and cheese and bartenders order mai tais and hot dogs.

"SoPi is growing and changing everyday, the once street walker ridden, gang-infested neighborhoods are now filling with keen and curious cocktail drinkers, bar enthusiasts, and the aptly named "Hipsters". More and more of the old brothels and sex shops are slowly being bought out and are helping to turn this area into a thriving pool of positive imbibing to which Rue Frochot is the center." - Bartender Scotty Schuder, owner of Dirty Dick

MORNING

Bakeries & Breakfast

Buvette Gastrothèque

Chef Jody Williams brought a taste of France to New York and now she’s bringing her successful bar à vin to Paris. Open all day until midnight, it’s the kind of place you come for coffee and pastries in the morning, stop by for lunch and come back in the evening for wine, cocktails, terrines and tartines.

28, Rue Henry Monnier, 75009 | T: +33.1.44.63.41.71 | ilovebuvette.com

Arnaud Delmontel 

"I stop here for fresh baguettes." Chef Jody Williams of Buvette Gastrothèque

39, Rue des Martyrs, 75009 | T: +33.1.48.78.29.33

Gourmet Shops

La Ferme Saint-Hubert

One of the best cheesemongers in Paris. Opened in 1998, they sell over 500 French cheeses, plus a selection from around the world.

"Tell them that the guys from Spring sent you to them and you'll get the best selection of cheese. They're excellent for Comte and Beaufort and they have an excellent selection of chevre as well." - Chef Daniel Rose of Spring

36 Rue de Rochechouart, 75009 | T: +33.1.45.53.15.77 | la-ferme-saint-hubert-de-paris.com

Causses

"The best little gourmet market for a a bottle of wine, olives, foie gras, fresh vegetables, cheeses, and fresh orange juice." - Chef Jody Williams of Buvette Gastrothèque

55, Rue Notre-Dame de Lorette, 75009 | T: +33.1.53.16.10.10 | causses.org

Autour du Saumon

Selling specialty food items and a variety of smoked fish like salmon, eel, halibut and trout. They also have caviar and unique canned goods.

"I always buy the organic anchovies here." - Chef Jody Williams of Buvette Gastrothèque

56 Rue des Martyr, 75009 | T: +33.1.48.78.47.58 | autourdusaumon.eu

La Chambre aux Confitures

A small boutique dedicated to gourmet jams, chutneys, honeys and various confitures.

“For champagne and raspberry jam, red fruit and vin chaud jam.” -  Chef Jody Williams of Buvette Gastrothèque

9, Rue des Martyrs, 75009 | T: +33.1.71.73.43.77 | lachambreauxconfitures.com

LUNCH

Modern French | Le Pantruche

“I love coming here for lunch or dinner. Le Pantruche is good, smart food. Don’t miss the soufflé.” - Chef Jody Williams of Buvette Gastrothèque

3 Rue Victor Massé, 75009 | T: +33.1.48.78.55.60 | lepantruche.com

British | Rose Bakery

This is a British cafe and shop selling, pastries, Neal's Yard Dairy cheeses, organic produce and prepared foods like salads, soups, tarts and Scottish kedgeree.

“I love to come here for lunch. It is very simple, but they have amazing vegetables.” - Barman Romée de Goriainoff of Experimental Group

46 Rue des Martyr, 75009 | T: +33.1.42.82.12.80

AFTERNOON SHOPPING

Antiques | L'objet Qui Parle

You can hunt for hidden treasures like vintage plates from hotels, serving items, sconces and lots of mirrors and chandeliers just north of Pigalle. "For great antiques and art objects." - Chef Jody Williams of Buvette Gastrothèque

86 Rue des Martyrs, 750018 | T: +33.6.09.67.05.30

DINNER

Japanese | Momoka

This mini-Japanese restaurant seats just 24 people, which includes a counter. The kitchenette showcases chef Masayo Hashimoto, who trained as a French pastry chef.

"The Japanese chef is super-talented. It’s a modest little place, but the food is amazing. Whenever I come here, I give her carte blanche and let her cook for me." - Sommelier Laura Vidal, formerly of Frenchie

5 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, 75009 | T: +33.1.40.16.19.09

Modern Bistro | Caillebotte

Menu du jour, well-priced wines and many of the kitchen crew worked at the three-Michelin starred Le Bristol.

"It's easy bistro food, quite rustic and no fuss. I like the beef carpaccio and the cod. This is a very good restaurant." - Chef Raphael Francois of Le Cirque

8 Rue Hippolyte Lebas, 75009 | T: +33.1.53.20.8.70

French | Petrelle

A small restaurant with just nine tables with unique, quirky decor. Chef Jean-Luc André selects many of the herbs and vegetables from his own garden.

"Such an interesting restaurant. I like it as much for its rare decor as for the meal and excellent wines. Jean-Luc is adorable and has been really generous helping us getting started in Paris.” - Chef Jody Williams of Buvette Gastrothèque

34 Rue Petrelle, 75009 | T: +33.(0)1.42.82.11.02 | petrelle.fr

EVENING & LATE NIGHT

Cocktails & Tapas | Artisan

Craft cocktails along with tapas selections from Vanessa Krycève, who has worked with Pierre Herme, Guy Savoy and Laduree. Expect small plate choices like terrines, Iberico jamon and veloute de champignons (cream of mushroom soup). They serve late into the night.

"This is one of my favorite places for cocktails in Paris. It is owned by a young guy who partnered with a chef. They have small plates and sharp cocktails."- Barman Romée De Goriainoff of Experimental Group

"They have a a friendly team and great drinks." - Bartender Joshua Fontaine of Glass, Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste

Open until 2am
14 Rue Bochart de Saron, 75009 | T: +33.1.48.74.65.38

Tiki Cocktails | Dirty Dick

“The Dirty Dick opened in 1936 and served as a Brothel-strip club until we bought it in the summer of 2012. We decided to keep the original name as a homage to its long standing historical heritage and gave it quite the makeover. Forget that you're in Paris, forget your worries while tasting exotic flavors and great rums.” - Owner and bartender Scotty Schuder

"It's a fun atmosphere and they have Scorpion Bowls." - Bartender Joshua Fontaine of Glass, Candelaria, and Le Mary Celeste

"Bartender Scotty Schuder is doing a great job with Dirty Dick. It's small, intimate and a really fun atmosphere." - Bartender Martin Cate of Smuggler's Cove

Open until 2am
10 Rue Frochot, 75009 

Cocktails & Hot Dogs | Glass 

Specialty cocktails and unique imports like Brooklyn Larger beer, hot dogs, pickles and  lit floor (a la Saturday Night Fever).

"This is owned by the same people who have Candelaria and Le Mary Celeste. It is more rock and roll and a really cool dive bar. It’s the first cocktail bar where you can have Brooklyn beers and hot dogs. It’s pretty cool."- Barman Romée De Goriainoff of Experimental Group

Open until 3am, 5am on weekends
7 Rue Frochot, T: +33.9.80.72.98.83 | glassparis.com